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Topsey Topsey
7/6/2013 7:36 AM

A few guys have been PM’ing me & numerous guys have been posting threads on here asking about what parts to get & how to set up their bikes to be the “Perfect” street bike. I am not going to say get “This” part but I will recommend parts with certain specifications & the actual part you get is up to you..

Frame:
There is a LOT of “You should get this or that Frame” but honestly, you should get a frame YOU are comfortable with! The new thing right now is super short Chain Stays but if you are comfortable with 13.5”/13.75” Hell even 14” Chain Stays why should you have to conform to what is “Trendy” Choose something YOU like & YOU will be comfortable on, after all YOU are the one who will be riding it!!

Fork:
Steeper Offset is what you want, anything between 13mm to 25mm will suit your “Perfect” Street bike well. Shorter Steerer Tubes are also much better, something around 160mm to 165mm. Bigger threaded compression bolts will make your Steerer Tube less prone to crushing by certain stems also H.24 or H.25 are the ones to look for. Drop Out thickness also depends on the fork. Some offer 4mm Thick & with certain heat treatments this will be fine. But other Forks have things like Invest Cast or Hollow Drop Outs that are 6mm Thick which is Also fine, I honestly don’t think there is a specific thickness you should need for Street.

Headset:
If you really want a top quality & long lasting Headset then you really want to get Fully Sealed ACB Bearings. They usually cost more than your average FSA Impact style Integrated Headset but they are TOTALLY worth it in the long run. Headset Cap wise I am a huge advocate for taller stack height caps. 8mm to 12mm. Not only does it look different compared to all this slammed as hell stuff it also means you do not need to cut your Steerer Tube down shit loads.

Stems:
Top Load or Front Load it doesn’t particularly matter TBH. Obviously there is a slight difference in the feel of them as a Top Load will lift your bars slightly higher, there are a few Top Load stems hitting the market that will raise your bars over an Inch which is insanity to me as there are bars that are 9 & 10 Inches now!! Length wise if we are going for our “Perfect” Street bike then you want it to be less than 49mm in length.

Handle Bars:
Let’s get one thing straight, unless you are 6’2 + NO ONE needs bars over 8.5” in height. Also NO ONE needs bars wider than 28” but you shouldn't count out a set of bars if they are say 28.5” wide. There are things called Pipe Cutters or Hacksaws & then you are sorted! Really you want a Bar with AT LEAST 3 Degrees of Upsweep. Anything above 3 Degrees will not only be better on your wrists but will help with the “pop” when hopping. 10 to 12 Degrees of Backsweep is pretty much the norm. However if you find a Bar with say 9 or 13 Degrees of Backsweep, Hey that’s no big deal don’t count them out! Tubing wise I do believe that as bars get bigger & bigger straight gauge tubing is more important as it will help with bending. Help you might say?! Well with straight gauge tubing your bars are more likely to bend than snap & that is a huge plus if you slam hard! Butted Tubing also has its advantages but I personally am more of a fan of straight gauge tubing. There are also neat little features to look out for such as Duel Radius Bends, with these it also helps in the prevention of bars snapping. With the duel radius bends it’s a less extreme bend which means they are more likely to push out instead of snap.

Grips:
When I first started riding a grip was a grip. They came in one length, one thickness & one rubber compound. Nowadays the world is your oyster when it comes to grips. For the “Perfect” Street bike I think you should have grips at least 150mm in length, slim to medium thickness & soft in compound.

Bar Ends:
With the introduction of Plastic Bar Ends the metal one has kinda slipped away. Some companies offer better plastics than others. Some last for weeks others can last for years. Some bars also have nifty screw in bar ends that thread directly into the handle bars. Those are pretty sweet!

Seat:
I honestly think Pivotal is a must. For the “Perfect” Street Bike I think you really do need a Fat seat. There are a few companies offering their own bases compared to others who just uses the standard “Fat Capitol” base. Keep an eye out for the Companies offering their own bases, they have put the time & effort into making a base that uses a different shape & quite possibly uses thicker plastic too, thus making it stronger.

Post:
Not much to say about the Pivotal Seat Post really. Some look better than others, one or two have slightly different ways of fixing the Pivotal base to the post. For the “Perfect” Street Bike I would suggest using a post around 180mm to 220mm. something a little longer than your average Stump Post allowing you greater adjustment in height.

Chains:
First off don’t bother with Half Link Chains they are NOT worth the extra money nor do they offer any noticeable difference compared to a full link chain. You only need ONE Half Link for gearing adjustment in your Frames Drop Outs. I would stick clear of Chains with holes machined in the Links & things like that to make them “Lighter” If a company is worried about making their Chain lighter I think its best to stick clear!

Sprockets:
For the “Perfect” Street Bikes, The thicker the better! 8mm is really what you want to look for. Some Sprockets are 8mm with internal machining (Because they are hollow in the center) whilst others just machine them down to 6mm in the center. OR you could choose from one of the growing amount of Bash Guard Sprockets that are hitting the market. Which obviously protect the Chain & Sprocket Teeth meaning you can clip it on grinds or even purposely smash into things with your sprocket for certain tricks!

Cranks:
There are a few different options when it comes to Cranks. 48 Spline, Wedge Clusters, Square, 16 Spline. Then there are different spindle diameters. 19mm, 22mm, 24mm. I personally for the “Perfect” Street Bike would count out the 19mm. 22mm or 24mm are a shit load stiffer & will make the bike feel stronger. There are 2-Piece & 3 Piece cranks. TBH this doesn’t really make a huge deal of difference. 2-Piece are just easier to install.
Bottom Brackets:
Not a great deal to say about Bottom Brackets! Make sure you get one to correctly fit the size of spindle your crank uses! And remember to space the crank arms out enough for decent Chain alignment & obviously you want the Crank Arms to clear the frames Chain Stays!

Pedals:
Metal Pedals have almost died out due to the fact that plastic in the short term us cheaper. There are some Plastic Pedals with Metal Pins also. For the “Perfect” Street Bike I would suggest plastic pedals with a slightly wider body. This not only gives you more room for your feet but a little more room when pedal grinding because obviously on the “Perfect” Street Bike you will be grinding with every part of your bike available!

Tyres:
Tyres are getting wider & wider, whilst I see no problem with this, however it does mean that they are getting a lot heavier. So if you can afford it get Kevlar Bead Tyres to save a little weight. For the “Perfect” Street Bike I would suggest 65 to 79 PSI. You do NOT need 100 PSI+ unless you are carving around a bowl!

Rims:
Contrary to belief you do not need super heavy, ultra wide Rims for Street. You can easily run a 15/16oz Rim for Street. I would however suggest that you look for a Rim that can be Cross Laced as it does add a little extra strength & Rigidity to your wheels. I would also recommend sticking clear of Chrome. 10 years ago there were no rules & regulations riding companies asses about how thick & what style of Chrome can be used for the “Safety” of the uses. Nowadays this means Chrome is a lot thinner & the compounds are nothing like the used to be so the Chrome flakes a LOT quicker. If you want Chrome looking Rim look for a Raw or Polished Rim, there are a few companies starting to offer these as an alternative to Chrome.

Hubs:
For Street you really want Female axles. Not Shemale, Full, Proper FEMALE axles! 3/8ths Front, 14mm Rear. I’m afraid if you want 48h Hubs you will either have to Travel back in time to buy them new or buy second hand. 36h is pretty much your only option. 9t Is also pretty much becoming the only option you can get for Cassette Hubs nowadays also. But I would recommend a 10t Driver personally. Drive wise, most hubs will come with a 3 Pawl individually sprung Driver. If you want better engagement look for a 4 Pawl Individually sprung Driver. You can get things like Straight Pull Hub Shells & things like that but it really isn’t needed. Thicker & Angled Hub Flanges however are a nice touch!

Spokes & Nipples:
I really cannot stress enough how a good set of spokes will make or break a wheel build! Not only are they less prone to breaking they add stiffness & rigidity to your wheels. Alloy Nipples are a nice touch, they are fractionally lighter & are more prone to stripping though, I think its more of a Bling factor than it making your wheel build “Better”

Hub Guards:
Cannot stress enough (Again haha) How important these are not only do they protect your hub flanges they protect your spokes too! They will make your wheels life a LOT longer too! Plastic Hub Guards are a bit of a grey area, whilst they do slide faster they also fall apart shit loads quicker so for the “Perfect” Street bike I really do recommend Metal Guards. Also with Metal Guards if you can afford them get Heat Treated 4140 Guards. They slide better than Alloy Guards & will last a LOT longer! If you can get a Drive Side Guard for your Hub I recommend doing so! Protects your Chain & Driver allowing for opposite & crooked grinds without the paranoia of damaging your Driver or snapping your Chain!

Pegs:
I am going to totally contradict myself with Pegs compared to Hub Guards. If you want your pegs to last a long time then definitely get Heat Treated 4140 Pegs BUT if you want to open up a whole new world of grinding I.E Rough Ledges, Wood, things like that. Then Plastic/Plastic Sleeved Pegs are what you want! One last thing for Pegs, the average peg is around 4” in length. For the “Perfect” Street Bike I really do recommend getting longer pegs. 4.25” or 4.5” Long Pegs once you get used to the extra length give you more room to adjust on rails or ledges & can keep you locked in where with the shorter peg you may have had to bail.

That’s my write up for the “Perfect” Street Bike. I hope when you read this & take it all in that when it comes to you buying new parts that you remember some of this & give some of my suggestions a try!

Cheers Guys, Stay Cool.

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Effting Effting
7/6/2013 7:47 AM

Very well done and typed, don't understand why people say street need a 13 chain stay blah blah blah, I know plenty of people who ride classic long chainstays for street. Well done!

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Chuck8273 Chuck8273
7/6/2013 7:52 AM

Cheers Topsey! Once again, you do not disappoint!

Refs: Tito24, RiverSideRider, Stussy, Nettyspaghetti, Daniel24, Freddydapice, BrokenBMX, SuperstarDK, HardBMX_Tim. There's more, but I'm too lazy to look them up, haha.

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FBC2012 FBC2012
7/6/2013 8:13 AM

Awesome write up.I will deffenitly take this into consideration for my new build

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tomdon tomdon
7/6/2013 8:28 AM

If you don't mind topsey, ima add to this.

Chainstay length does have an effect but not as big an impact as people think. Shorter chainstays will make hops more responsive in the aspect they will pop easier but be far less stable. Where as a longer chainstay will require a tad more effort but will be much more stable once you're up.

Same goes for manuals. Shorter chainstay does not make manuals easier. It just requires less effort to pick them up, but you are trading off the balance. Shorter chainstays will be harder to balance once the manual is going. Longer chainstays are the opposite, they balance better but don't pull up as easy.

Bmx is all technique however. As long as you have the technique you should be able to adapt to any frame just frame regardless of the geometry.

I'm on the vital legit list!

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Zach P-D Zach P-D
7/6/2013 8:30 AM

added to favorites bar!!

Bruh

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Collin_McClenahan Collin_McClenahan
7/6/2013 8:34 AM

Didn't know that about chrome wheels. Good to know though since I'm looking for new ones.

"Let it be heard: FOUR IS BACK MUH FUCKAZ"
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K_A_N_E_ K_A_N_E_
7/6/2013 2:43 PM

Someone pin this

I'm gonna need bigger bars

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Topsey Topsey
7/6/2013 3:05 PM

Would be cool if this was stickied, i think it would save a lot of hassle, kids could just read this & make decisions on what they want for their bikes. Glad this has got the interest it has. I know its a lot to read through, but i really think it would help a lot of people out if they read through it!

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FreddyDapice FreddyDapice
7/6/2013 3:08 PM

Very we'll well written. Never realized how "street" my bike is even though that's all I ride. Just don't have 22mm cranks, but I will soon, aha. Akimbos or thunderbolts.

Refs - Night Light(x2), TCbmx(x2), metalheadification, netty speghetti, Dee Hos, burkminipup, Jon_rides_Eastern, ridebmx34, ScramHype, Wolfen, mnsketch, EmpireMonopoly, howlerfbm, ThomasEller, ii Krxfted, zachhendrix, pcoco,

Phone - 704 - 797 - 6844

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Zach P-D Zach P-D
7/6/2013 3:19 PM

and now, on Topsey's Tips... sideways

Bruh

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OneEyeIlluminatiGuy OneEyeIlluminatiGuy
7/6/2013 3:28 PM

I'm 5 foot 9" tall I ride 9 inch bars puts less stress on my bad shoulder

Also if you ride street your need 90 or more psi unless you weigh less that 120lbs
Don't want to get pinch flats

You left allot out about the frame too, top and bottom gussets are a must if you ride street unless your riding a Sunday or a standard sta

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andyferly wrote: OneEyeIlluminatiGuy has spoken.
These bars are officially stupid.

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Aav1996 Aav1996
7/6/2013 3:44 PM
Topsey wrote:

Would be cool if this was ...more

Yes, someone sticky it up!!! =D

Topsey, would you mind explaining some off the terms a bit more?

Steeper Offset, Shorter Steerer Tubes, Upsweep, Backsweep ,straight gauge tubing, FEMALE axles! 3/8ths Front, 14mm Rear,
48 Spline, Wedge Clusters, Square, 16 Spline.

I'd really appreciate it, thanks =P

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andyferly andyferly
7/6/2013 3:46 PM

Impressive this is gold!

"Are they punkin' me Tio, are they punkin' me?"

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OneEyeIlluminatiGuy OneEyeIlluminatiGuy
7/6/2013 3:56 PM

I do agree with allot of that, I've road street my whole life of riding

Albes Is Rad!!!
Bike Check
YouTube
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Blood Life
Signature Trick : Foot Plant Whip
future FBM wrote: Finally once we can share a momen
andyferly wrote: OneEyeIlluminatiGuy has spoken.
These bars are officially stupid.

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K_A_N_E_ K_A_N_E_
7/6/2013 4:27 PM

All you need to do is make the sub headings BOLD AND UNDERLINED

I'm gonna need bigger bars

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Hatebreeder Hatebreeder
7/6/2013 5:06 PM

BB height preference?

Legit



Oscar5788,Scramhype,SuperstarDK,Howlerfbm,AlexDanielP,KilledGlamour,notorious NIG,KYMIKE

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Topsey Topsey
7/6/2013 5:13 PM
Aav1996 wrote:

Yes, someone sticky it ...more

Steeper Offset = How far the Drop out stickers out from the fork leg. Zero Offset the drop outs face vertically down, then you have offsets ranging from 13mm to 35mm. It changes the way the front end feels, Steeper Offset (25mm) Is faster, more twitchy steering, Slacker Offset (35mm) Is a lot more stable, smoother steering.

Steerer Tube = The Long tube on your Fork that slots inside the Frames Head Tube that your stem goes on.

Upsweep = The amount of Degrees you handle bar angles up like 4 Degree Upsweep the bars are angled up 4 Degrees.

Backsweep = The same as Upsweep, just how much the bars angle backwards, 12 Degree Backsweep, the bars are angled back 12 degrees.

Straight Gauge Tubing: All Frames, Bars & Forks are made from Tubing. There are different O.Ds (Outside Diameter) Which is measured around the Tube & then the Gauge of the tube is how thick it is. You may have heard of companies offering "Butted Tubing" Which means the tubing gets thinner in areas it doesn't need to be as thick. Well Straight Gauge Tubing is one thickness through out the entire Tube.

Female Axles = They are Hubs that have Bolts that Screw in, no axle going through then entire hub. Look at G-Sport Hubs & you will understand.

3/8ths Front = The size of them bolt basically. Forks Drop Outs are usually 3/8ths (10mm) so they are 3/8ths (10mm) to fit.

14mm Rear = The Size of the Rear Bolts/Axle. Rear Axles are almost always 14mm because they are stronger. Almost all BMX Frames feature 14mm Drop Outs so the Rear Hubs are almost always 14mm to fit. With a few exceptions a few companies offer 3/8ths Rear Hubs (The same size as most Front Hubs)

48 Spline = The number of splines on a Cranks Spindle (The bit the Crank Arms slide onto)

Wedge Clusters = As far as i am aware the only Cranks that use this system are Odyssey cranks. Look at Thunderbolt Cranks & see how the Crank Arm attaches to the Spindle.

16 Spline = Much the same as 48 Spline Cranks. Its just the Number of Splines on the Crank Spindle. Look at Shadow Conspiracy Noctis Cranks they feature the 16 Spline Spindle.

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Topsey Topsey
7/6/2013 5:26 PM

Guys! I left out a lot of the Frame options because you can ride Street on pretty much any Frame on the Market right now! You just need to find a Frame you are comfortable on. I did type out a whole long bit explaining a few different things but when i posted it a shit load of it got cut off!!!

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K_A_N_E_ K_A_N_E_
7/6/2013 5:54 PM
Topsey wrote:

Guys! I left out a lot of ...more

You gotta make the sub headings bold and underlined

I'm gonna need bigger bars

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tomdon tomdon
7/6/2013 6:20 PM

Here ya topsey just so you don't have to type it all again. I'm willing to bet this is how extensive your frame explanation was, considering your vast knowledge
http://www.fortytwobmx.com/bmxtech_framegeometry.html

I'm on the vital legit list!

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chad88 chad88
7/6/2013 6:24 PM

every time im looking for a new part im checking this first

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Tweetz Tweetz
7/6/2013 8:34 PM

this is gold right here thanks for posting it this is gonna be my guideline from now on for my street bike but i've heard but do not agree with a rumor i've heard that you can just make a hub guard out of a tennis ball or one of those orange rubber balls i could see it working bur it think the company made 4140 and alloy guards will absorb more shock then the homemade ones would and would porbley last longer any thoughts on this

Give props if deserved but know respect is earned.
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Zach P-D Zach P-D
7/7/2013 2:26 AM

Yo blogs sticky dis shit tongue

Bruh

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Topsey Topsey
7/7/2013 7:09 AM
K_A_N_E_ wrote:

All you need to do is make ...more

Cant seem to do this with a Standard "Edit Your Post" option.. Maybe a mod can do it If/When they sticky this thread.

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Topsey Topsey
7/7/2013 7:10 AM
tomdon wrote:

Here ya topsey just so you ...more

Excellent Tom! That just saved me a SHIT LOAD of time haha.

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Topsey Topsey
7/8/2013 4:00 AM

Don't mean to be a dick & promote my own threads but i would really like to see this stickied please!! Also, would anyone else like to see ... The "Perfect" Trails Bike & The "Perfect" Park Bike??

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brianoob brianoob
7/8/2013 4:45 AM
Topsey wrote:

Don't mean to be a dick ...more

It's not going to get sticked and no-one even reads stickied threads anyway.

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one try kid one try kid
7/8/2013 5:51 AM

I would like to ask about having more than 3 upsweep for bars.

Does it really make a difference?
I mean, there are a few street riders who go big with less than 3 upsweep on their bars like Hoder and Colt Fake.
And they seem fine with little upsweep.

My arms hurt a bit when i land hard on grinds.
So, i want to hear from guys who shifted from 1 degree to 3 degrees upsweep if it does make a difference.

I'm thinking about dropping some coins on Animal Big-Fours.

Thanks.

In real life, i'm a short Perverted Azn Man.
But in the internet, i'm a killing machine with 10 years MMA training experience.

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Zach P-D Zach P-D
7/8/2013 6:24 AM
Topsey wrote:

Don't mean to be a dick ...more

Both if ya have the time. wink

Bruh

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